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Programme TAHITI

ADM. 55/35

Journal of Captain Wallis
HMS Dolphin

June 9th – July 27th  1767


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Remarks Tuesday June 9th 1767    
                                               

Afternoon Sent Lieu.t Furneaux with all Boats Onshoar, and a Mate & Twenty Men to make a Rolling Way for to get the Water Cask up and down from the Well; at the same time ordered the Lieu. t to take Possession of the Island in his Majesty’s name and called it Queen Charlottes Island, in honour of her Majesty. The Boats returned with Cocoa Nutts & Scurvy Grass and informed me they had found two More Wells the Water very good and not far from the Beach – I tho’ much out of order went onshoar (the Surgeon and many of the Scorbuticks to take a walk) and seeing these wells so commodeous, ordered a Weeks Provisions to be sent Onshoar to the Mate and Twenty Men who I left to fill Water; these Men had Arms and Ammunition left with them, the Boats and all returned at Night except the Waterers and we stood off and on not being able to find any Anchorage –
at Daylight sent the Boats with Empty Cask – the Surgeon & number of the Scorbutic Men to Walk on Shoar, but to keep near the Waterside and in the Shade, with Strict orders not to pull down any of the houses or destroy the Canoes or Cocoa nutt trees there being but few, had people to Climb and take them down – and not cut the Trees down for the sake of the fruit.  at Noon a Rolling way being made received a Cutter draw of Water, the getting it off the Beach is very troublesome as it is all a Platform Rock and at times a Great Surf tumbles in upon it
found the Variation here to be 4:46 Easterly – Ship Standing off and on

The Inhabitants were of a Reddish colour were naked except a Mat about their Middle, they were well made, & the weomen hansome; we saw no kind of Mettal, the Tools they make use of for building their Canoes are Shells Sharpned & fixed on Sticks, and made like Adzes, Chizles, & Awls, they sew the Boards together, and lash two Canoes in which they will carry Twenty People – we know nothing more of these people..

 

 

Remarks Wednesday June 10 1767

 

Moderate & fine Pleasant weather; received a Boat load of Water, another of Cocoa Nutts, Palm Nuts & Scurvy Grass,  at 4 all the Ailing Men with the surgeon returned much recruited by their Walk -   Stood off and on all Night, at Midnight it came on very Squally Dirty weather with a Great Sea – at day light Stood in shore and ordered the Mate to send of all the water that was filled and be ready to come of with his People when the Boats returned again at the same time to gather as many Cocoa Nutts and Scurvy grass as he Could, at 6 the Boats returned with all the Cask filled and reported that the Surf ran very high that they feared twould be difficult bringing of the people as it was tide of flood and made the Landing Worse- sleard the Boats, Stood well up to windward, and sent but a few hands in the Boats, to bring of those people who were onshoar, at Noon they they returned On Board with all the Men, in coming off the Cutter Shipped a Sea that near filled her the Barge - being by good part of the People got into her, the rest clear’d her of the Provisions, Cocoa Nutts & bags of Greens, & free’d her without any other loss than the provisions
at Noon hoisted the Boats in. there being a very great Sea, here the Surf running very high on the Shore, and no Anchorage I thought it most prudent with the refreshments we had to leave this place – and Back away.
We left a Union Jack Flying, some Hatchetts, Nails, Glass Bottles, Beads, and Shillings, Sixpences & halfpence. together with The Ships Name.Time of our calling here and taking Possession of this and Whitsun Island – This Island is in the Latitude of 19:18+ Long:Observed 138°:04’ West of Ld.
                                                                            

                                                                                                                  
Remarks Onboard his Majesty’s Ship Dolphin Thursday June 11: 1767-

Moderate Gales and hazey weather, at 1 saw an Island bearing WBS Charlotte Island bore EBN 15 Miles      
at ½ past three we were close to the Island it bearing N about ¾ of a Mile The East end of it ran close along the Shore, had no soundings; the Whole Island, or rather Islands being surrounded with a Platform Rock, the Islands were full of Trees, but not One Cocoa Nutt on any part there of – on the Watermost. we saw the Canoes with all the Inhabitants by them that had fled from Charlotte Island, there were not any Hutts but the people had hauled up their Canoes upon the Beach and placed their Weomen & Children under them and they came down close to the Water Side with long Piches in their Hands, & some with Firebrands making a great noise and dancing in Strange manner. there were 7 or eight Double Canoes with about fourscore Men Weomen  and Children.
These Islands were sandy and not Green under the Trees as Charlotte Island was theye Likewais so Narrow that we could see thro’ from one side to the other, the Shore Rocky & no Anchorage nor any likelihood of refreshment to be met with on it - made Sail till Six O’Clock & then brought too, her head to the NE; - Egmont Island Bearing EBN by Compass, Distance about 12 Miles
At 6 PM had an Observation for Longitude, and found E: Egmont Island (which Name I gave it in Honour of the Rt.Honbl: the Earl of Egmont) to Lye in the Latitude of 19:20.S Longitude Observed 138:30 West from London
Longitude made by Dead Reckoning from Cape Pillar to E of Egmont Isle, 65:26 West

 

at Six AM Made Sail Cloudy rainy weather with a great Southern Swell – at Noon Fresh Gales & Cloudy with some Rain.

 

 

Remarks Friday June 12 1767 -

 

Fresh Gales, and being with a Great Southern Swell, at One Saw an Island in the WSW Stood for it, at 4 were within a Quarter of a Mile of it ran along the Shore Sounding but could get no Ground These islands are somewhat like Egmont Islands only much Narrower, full of Trees but not one Cocoa Nutt Tree, and surrounded on every side with Rocks on which the Sea breaks very High.
on the West End amongst the Rocks we Saw about Sixteen Inhabitants, they had no Canoes, but carried long Poles in their hands, were much such people as we had seen before, it blowing hard and staying here would be only losing time made Sail from it till Eight a Clock and then Brought too –
This Island I called Glocester Island in honour of his Royall Highness, the Duke of Gloster it lyeth in the Latitude of 19:11 S & Long: Observed West from London 140°:04’-
by Reckoning Longitude West from Cape Pillar – 67”08
Served Cocoa Nutts to the People, who had every day as much Scurvy Grass as they could make use of which hath been of infinite service to them – at 9 AM made Sail

Dirty, Squally weather saw an Island made sail for it at 10 very Squally & Rainy saw a Long Reef with Breakers on each end of the Island, brought too with our Head off Shore –

at Noon Light Airs & dirty weather.  we judge this Island to lay in Lat: 19:18 S and Long.t: west from London – 140:36. and by Cape Pillar by computation 67:40 West

                                                                                                                                          

 

Remarks Saturday June 13   1767                                                           

Little wind and Cloudy with a SSW Swell – the Island Bore SE was low and had many Breakers round it, therefore had no hope of finding any refreshment on it Stood to the Westwood. This Island I called Cumberland Island in Honour of his Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland –
it is about the Size of Queen Charlottes Island

Variation Pt. Azumeth 7:10 Easterly

at Daylight saw another Low Island bearing in the NE; it making in small Flat Keys,   and right to Windward: kept on to the Westward in hopes of finding Higher Land where in all probability we might find both Anchorage and refreshments – This Island I called Prince William Henrys Island after his Majesty’s Third son
it Lays in the Latitude of 19°:00’ S and Long.d Observed 141:06 West from London and Longitude by Account West from Cape Pillar 68:04 –
at Noon Light breezes and fair

Remarks Sunday June 14: 1767

Light Airs, and dark cloudy weather with a Great SW swell

Dark Squally weather

fresh Gales and Squally weather close Reeft the Topsails and brought too

much rain & Lightning with a great SW Sea

made Sail Unbent the main Topsail to repair and bent another
saw a flock of large brown Birds with white Bellies –

at Noon fresh Gales with a Great sea Clear overhead but very hazey in the Horizon

Remarks June 15: 1767 - Monday

Fresh Gales with a great SW Sea
saw a great Many Birds, they were Grey but their heads and tails white and pretty large
brought too at Dark

A very Great Sea from the SSW, the Ship labours very much

made Sail blows very fresh and a great Sea – many Birds about the Ship

at Noon Moderate, a Great Swell from the SSW –
The people served Cocoa Nutts every day which hopes keeps the Scurvy from gaining ground     

      

 

Remarks Tuesday June 16 - 1767                                                           
                    
Fresh gales and Cloudy with a great SSW Swell, the Ship Labours much
The Scorbutic people rather worse & many more Complaining, yet few lay bye but Struggle against it; they have Vinegar & Mustard as much as they can use  Malt made into Wort every day.  and every other thing that can be got for them, put every one at whole allowance & the purser having a Quantity of Sugar and Raisins, he Purchased at Madeira, he paid them for the time they had been at Short allowd.with it and Rice at a reasonable Price so as all were content therewith and Judge it to be of Great use to them and as we catch Rain Water, we can afford them a good deal, having never stinted them yet of as much as they chose to drink and the Sick allway had plenty, our daily expence being about somewhat more than half a Ton –

Variation – Pt. Azumeth – 6.00 E

Fresh Gales & Dark Squally rainy weather found by Observation the Ship much to the Northward of what we supposed her .owing I believe to a Great SW Swell

Remarks Wednesday 17th 1767 –

Squally rain Dirty weather with a great SW Swell
Caught about four Hhd.s of rain Water  

Dirty weather brought too -

fresh Gales & Dirty weather

Little wind  
At daylight made Sail, soon after saw Land Bearing WBN it making in a small round Hummock
at  Noon, the forementioned land bore N64:00 W about 5 Leagues Distance it looked very like the Mewstone in Plymouth Sound only larger
The Ship 20 Mile Northward of her reckoning
Remarks Thursday June 18. 1767

Light Breezes and very unsettled weather, with rain at times

at 5 the S:° part of the Island Bore NW1/2 N 6 or 8 Miles, hauld the Wind and Continued of and On all Night, at 10 saw a Light on the Shore, which tho’very small Island gave us spirits that it was inhabited and we might possibly get Anchorage and refreshments, the Land being very high and full of Cocoa Nutt Trees which is a certain Sign of water ----------
AM hoisted the Boats out Mann’d and Armed them and sent Lieu.t Furneaux, putting all kinds of trinketts into the Boats to go Onshoar and endeavour to get refreshments at the same time endeavour to find a place to Anchor in, several canoes coming off, put back seeing our Boats – at Noon the Boats returned, and brought with them a Pig and a Cock, a few Plantains and Cocoa nutts, he reported that he saw at least 100 Inhabitants and believed that there was many more, that he had Sounded all round but could find no place to Anchor in and scarce a Landing Place for the Boats, that he came to a Grapnell, and threw a Warp on shore. Which the  Natives held fast, and then conversed with him by Signs, he saw no weapons among them save some White Sticks which those in Authority wore and keept the people back that on there giving him the  Pig Cock &:c he gave them some beads, a Hatchett, Looking Glass, and several Trinketts and Combs, which the Weomen seeing they all run down to the Waterside, but the men drove them back soon after  a man came round a rock and dived down and weighd the Boats Grapnell at the same time the people Onshore made an Effort to draw the Boat into the Surf. they immediately Fired a Muskett over the Man who weigh’d the Grapnell he let it go as did the people their rope onshoar, after which, our people lay on their Oars, and finding they could not get anything more they returned On board.

at Noon the Island Bore NEBE Distance two Miles -

 

 

Remarks Friday June 19. 1767                                                     

 

Mr. Furneaux told me that bothe the Men and Weomen were Cloathed, a piece of the Cloth he brought with him, that the Inhabitants seem’d to be more in Number than he could think the Island could Support, that there were some Large Canoes there, & he thought that there might be places not far off where we might get refreshments, for this being but a small place no Anchorage and very difficult of Access, and if the Natives would not supply us we could not get anything as One Man could keep of a Hundred having considered of this I resolved to run further to the Westward, hoisted the Boat in Named this island Oznaburg Island in Honour of Prince Frederich -
This Island lies in Latitude 17.° 51 South & Longitude West from London 147”30’, and from Cape  Pillar.7h” 27 West. variation 7”10 Easterley ----------------
at Two Bore away at ½ past discovered very High land in the WSW this cheerd all our Spirits as we were in hopes of getting a place to secure the Ship in & recruit

at 7 Ozneburg Island Bore ENE, and the New Discovered Land from WNW toNBS
it being Squally & dirty Brought too till daylight or rather till it cleard away & we were much surprised to find we were Surrounded by some Hundred of Canoes, which had from One man to Ten in them who made such hallowing and Hooting that we could scarce hear each other Speak. the Land very high in Peaks but the side of the Hills look’d cultivated and the Shoar full of Houses and people. it was levell to the Waterside and that full of Cocoa Nutt and fruit Trees – and from the sides of the Mountains we saw large Rivers falling down into the Sea or near it.         
we made signs for some of them to come on board which they did, and in our Shewing them Fowles and Hogs they made signs that they had those things, but when we showed them Goats and Sheep they ran away and Jumped overboard with fear, but recovering themselves they came Onboard again, gave them some Nails & other things and made Signs to them to go onshoar and bring off some Hogs Fowles fruit &:e they did not seem to understand, but were watching their time being the weriest Natives I ever met, they saw nothing that they did not endeavour to make their own at last one of the Midshipmen came aft with a new Laced hat and was talking by signs to one of these people, he took his time snatched his hat of leaped of the Topsail and swam away with it ---

 


Remarks Saturday June 20:   1767 –

 

Hoisted the Boats out and Sent them in Shoar to Sound we running on & Sounding with out them – had no ground being a bout half a Mile from the Breakers, at two brought to and sent the Boats into a Bay hoping to find Anchorage there, but they found not close to the Breakers, they then Stood round to an Opening where they were surrounded with a vast Number of Boats, boredown to them and at the same time made the Signal for them to come On board, the Boats did then attempt to Board Ours and threw Stones at them on which I ordered a Shot to be fired over them, and the Mate that was in one of the Boats found that if he suffered them to come nearer he should not be able to defend himself fired a Musquett with Buck Shot and Wounded a Man who was then Standing up ready to Jump on board, in the Shoulder, on which they all moved off, and suffered the Boats to return to the Ship without any Molestation -
the Officers sent on this Duty informed me that there was a Platform Rock that lay half a Mile from the Shore every where were they Sounded & close to it ‘twas as Steep as any of the other Islands we had been at however we had hopes left Still as we were now on the Weather Side of the Island that in all reason we might expect Anchorage in running to Leeward, but on finding Breakers running of the South End a Great way off we hauled the Wind and was all Night turning to Windward in order to run down on the East Side of the Island

at 5 AM made Sail the Land bearing from NWBW, 10 Leagues, and there seem’d to be land beyond it to NE 5 Leagues – a remarkable Peak like a Sugar loaf NNE we were about two Leagues of the shore which seemed delightful & pleasant, full of Houses & Inhabitants saw some large Canoes in Shoar under Sail but not coming toward us –
at Noon Running along by the Shoar, the land bearing from 0¾ W to NWBW Distance of the Shore two or three miles – Latitude in 17hhs
Long :d  made.75:26 W
Merc Disn : 3381W -

 

                                                                                                          
Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin Sunday June 21. 1767 - 72

 

Fresh Gales, and very pleasant weather, sailing along the Shore sometimes not above a half a Mile and at others four or five Miles off. I had no Soundings, & having got opposite a River at Six a clock, & the Shoar looking better than any we had yet seen determined to stand of and on all Night and try for Anchorage in the Morning
hauled the Wind and Stood off and on constantly Sounding, saw great Numbers of Lights, all along the Shore -
at day break sent Boats to Sound, soon after they made the Signal for 20 fathom, ran in immediately and Anchored, in 17 fathom clean Sandy ground
the Extreme of the Land from ESE to NWBW about One Mile Off Shore and opposite to a large run of Water. as soon as we had Secured the Ship sent the Boats to sound along the Shore and to look at the place where we saw the Water at this time a great Number of Boats came from the Shoar to the Ship and brought with them Hogs, Fowles & plenty of fruit which we bought of them for Nails and such like things; but when our Boats pulled toward the Shore, most of the Natives went after them keeping at a Distance, but as the Boats grew higher, the Natives grew bolder and On a Suddain three large Sailing Boats run at the Cutter and carried away her outlicker and stove her Quarter, more coming down they fired two Musquetts over them, which they only laught at and attempted the Barge who fired at the Boat that way laying her onboard and much wounded a Man on which they desisted, and went away to leeward, and others returned to the Ship again and Traded. the Boats Continued Sounding untill Noon - when they returned and said that the Ground was very clear & that there was five fathom within a Quarter of a Mile of the Shoar, that there was a very great Surf at the place where the Water was, and a vast Number of the Inhabitants on the Beach, that they swam off to them with Bambooes filled with Water, and brought fruit likewais off, & invited them Onshoar, the Weomen particularly came down and Stript themselves naked and made all the alluring Gestures they could to intice them onshoar ---- gave the People a Meal of fresh Pork-
Latitude Observed – 17”30 South Long. Made from Cape Pillar 75.° 47 West Merid.n. Distance 3391 West 

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majesty’s Ship Dolphin, at Anchor                

June 1767


Moderate & Cloudy weather, sent the Boats with some Breakers & Small Cask to the Shoar to get Water; the Canoes Still about the Ship suffer none of the Natives to come onboard for they are so thievish that they Steal all they can lay their hands on.  at five the Boats returned, with only two Breakers of Water, which the Natives filled for them, and for their trouble kept all the rest, nor could they be perswaded to return them, but made Signs for our people to come Onshoar there were gathered at the Watering place some thousands of People when the Boats came away –

AM I sent the Boats again for water, and gave them Nails, Hatchets &e to gain the friendship of the Inhabitants, the Canoes came off to our Ship as Yesterday with Bread fruit, Plantains, Fowles, Hogs, & a fruit somewhat like Apples only much better; for which I ordered Nails, knives, Beads &e to be given, and procured fresh Pork enough for the Ships Company for two Days, at one Pound a Man – the Boats returned and only brought a few Calibashes of Water,

 

Monday 22

 

The Numbers of people that were assembled on the Beach prevented their landing
The young Weomen Acting every lewd Action they could think of to entice them to land, and brought down fruit and meat to the Waterside and pointed for to come & partake thereof. our people shew’d them the Breakers in the Boat and made Signs to them to bring of those they kept Yesterday; and when they could not prevail on them    they weigh their Grapnells and Sounded all round to see how near the Ship might come in and cover the Waterers
at their putting off they were pelted with the Weomen threw Apples and Bananoes at them and made great Hallowing – on Sounding they found that the Ship might ride within two Cables lengths of the Shoar Sandy Ground and four fathom Water at 3 Cables length five Fathom Water -
The Wind Blows here right along the Shore and raises a Great Sea alongside and a pretty High Surf on the Shore.                     
 

 

Remarks On board his Majesty’s Ship Dolphin
1767
June 23


Moderate and cloudy with some Rain, Boats Employed in Sounding, at Daylight weighed with an intent of Anchor At the Watering Place, Stood of to get further Windward when we discovered a Bay about Six or Eight miles Leeward; bore away for it sending the Boats a head at 9 hauled round a Reef the Boats making the Signal for 12 fathoms and stood in with an intent to Anchor, when we came near the Boats there being one on Each Bow, the Ship Struck on a Shoal from 1 pm: to two and half clar’d all up as fast as possible and clar’d the Ship of what Lumber was on Deck got the Longboat Cut & Stream& Cadge Anchor & Stream Cable & hawsers ready to carry out but had no Ground without the reef, The Ship Beating at Times pretty hard, at the same Time there were some Hundred of Canoes full of Men close by the Ship - but did not attempt to come near us, after laying in this Situation about three Quarters of an Hour the Wind coming off from the Shoar luckily the Ships head Swung off and we pressed all the Sail immediately on her and stove some Water in the fore Hold the Ship being by the head & hung there the stern being free, she began to move off and very soon after she ran into deep water; stood off and on the Boats sounding to Leeward found that the reef ran down to the Westward about one Mile & after that you might hove into a very good Harbour, and that where we Run aground that there was a passage off near a Cables length to the Windward. the Master after placing a Boat on the End of the Reef & Longboat with Anchor & hawsers with a Guard for fear of being attacked he came Onboard and Piloted the Ship safely round the reef and Anchored her 17 fathoms water fine black sand – this was about Noon –

Tuesday

The Place the Ship ran onshoar at was a Reef of Sharp Coral Rocks, the Sounding very uneven from two to 5 and Six fathoms, and unluckily where the boats were, the weather most in Twelve, and the leeward most in Nine fathom and the Reef between them – luckily we got of when we did, for the Wind freshning only a little after we got of and now fallen calm again yet the Surf runs very high on the reef and Breaks much, which had not the least appearance before so. I believe the Ship would have been soon Wreck’d, our Boats lost their Grapnells on the reef. we have look’d at the Ship’s Bottom as far as we can see and find nothing amiss except a small piece beat of the Bottom of the Rudder nor do we find the Ship makes any Water, the Trussle Trees at both Fore Mast and Mizen Topmast heads are Broke short, which suppose was done when the Ship thumped so hard on the Rocks; however we hope that her Bottom is sound and that we shall be able to repair all our damages here as this Bay appears to be a very Snug one if it is Clear of Rocks and Shoals –
Sent the Master with all the Boats Armed to sound the upper part of the Bay that if he found good Anchorage we might warp the Ship up within the Reef and Anchor her in safety; a great Number of Boats on the reef and crowds of people on the shoar.

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin                                          

June 1767


the Weather very pleasant, the Master returned and said that it was good Anchorage every where, turn’d to and began to Warp the Ship up the Bay. and at four the people being much fatigued secured the Ship, and Laid out the Stream Cable and Anchor with Hawsers ready to Warp up the Bay early in the Morning at the same time, put the people at four Watches, one Watch Allways under Arms Loaded & primed all the Guns, and fixed Musquetoons in all the Boats and Ordered all the rest of the people in case of an Alarm to be to be at the Quarters assigned them in a Moment, there being at this time great Numbers of Boats some very large and full of Men, very few came near the Ship and these only Small Ones. we got from them Fruit some Hogs, and Fowles –
at Sun Set they all rowed for the Shore -
at Six AM began to Warp the Ship up the Harbour, soon after came of many canoes and went under the Stern where I ordered the Gunner and two Mid:s to Barter with them for their Hogs, Fowles, Fruit:&:e and gave them Beads knives Nails - and Trinketts, forbidding any person but them to have any commerce with the Natives, about 8 the Number of Canoes increased much and those that came off last were large Double Canoes with a Dozen or more of Stout Men in Each – that they had very little in them to dispose of and that they were balasted with Round Pebble Stones; on seeing this I sent for the Second Lieu:t and bid him to keep the fourth Watch constantly at their Arms, for fear of any attempt; whilst the others were warping the Ship, soon after came of More Canoes who had placed a Number of weomen in a Row on board them, who made all the Gestures & Wanton tricks they could in vent; at the same time the boats at a distance drew nearer to the Ship, and Blew Concks, & Played on Flutes and Several Men with hoarse Voices Sung. at last a Man Sitting on a Canopy that was Fixed on a large double Canoe made Signs to let him come near the ship, which I allowed him to do, when he gave a Bunch of Red and yellow Feathers, to one of our People to bring to me and then put of
I then got some Trinketts in lieu to give to him but in a Moment there was a Strang kind of Hallow on this Mans throwing up the Branch of a Cocoanutt tree, and a Shower of Stones was poured on the Ship from every Side and all the Canoes in Motion at Once toward the Ship, the Guard I ordered to fire and the Two Quarter Deck Guns which I had Loaded with small Shot were fired likewais, this put them into some Confusion, however after a Minutes pause they began again, our people by this time having all got to their Quarters, I gave Orders for the Great Guns to be fired, some to fire constantly at a place on the Shore where there was a great Number of Canoes who were taking in Men and pushing of toward the Ship as fast as Possible – I believe there were not less than Three Hundred Boats about the Ship and on an Average Two Thousand Men beside some Thousands on the shoar and Boats coming from every Quarter; however, on hearing our Guns and seeing their Boats pulling off from the Ship they lay Quiet. and we left of firing – on their seeing that a Great Number of Canoes came together again and lay sometime looking at the ship about a Quarter of  Mile off, and then on a sudden hoisted up White Streamers pulled to ward the Ship’s Stern and began again to throw Stones which they threw dexterously and at a great Distance with Slings, the Stones many weighing Two Pounds; having run out two Guns at aft and pointing them well as we did some forward at a Number of Canoes that were coming toward the Bow of the Ship from whence I believe the had taken notice no Shot had been fired, I ordered them to be fired on, and One of the Shott hit the Canoe that had called the others to him and Cut it in sunder, on seeing which they immediately dispersed that in half an hour there was not a Canoe to be seen, the Inhabitants that had been looking on from the Shore all retreated over the Hills up into the Country. we then set at work and warped the Ship up the harbour, that at noon we were near the Upper end of it opposite a fine                    

 

                                                                                                                               
Remarks                                                                                             
Wednesday 24

 

a fine River, and not above a Cables length and a half of and better then two from the Reef and half a Mile from the Upper part of the Bay. in 9 fathom Water and had five Close to the Shore,  Moord the Ship, and carried out the Stream Anchor with the Two Shroud Hauswers for a Spring to keep the Ships Broad side opposite the River; at the Same time got up the Light Guns that were put into the Hold and Mounted them. gave what fruit and Pork was Onboard amongst the Sick

 

Thursday June 25


Pleasant weather, the Boats Employed in Sounding all round the Bay and looking at the Shore where there were any Inhabitants, & if they seemd inclind to disturb us, he was employed with the Boats on this Service, all the afternoon and Morning, & at Noon returned with a tolerable survey of the Place reported that there were no Canoes in sight, the Beach every where fit to land on, & the whole Bay clear of danger except the Reef and some Rocks at the upper End that Shew’d themselves – that he was certain the River that we were opposite was fresh Water, tho’ it Emptied it self on the other side of the Point of this Bay –
at Noon Ordered Lieu:t Furneaux to take all the Boats with the Marines and other men properly Armed, and Land opposite the Ship, and secure himself under the Cover of the Boats and Ship in the clearest ground he could find which seem’d to be opposite to where the Ship lay. it may seem Strange that I constantly sent the Second Lieutenant on Service, but the Reason was the First Lieutenant hath been ill for near Six weeks, and Still continues so; I likewais have been so ill for these Ten days past that it hath been with the utmost difficulty I have been able to crawl about, and am so much worn down this time that with the fatigue & hurry of being Onshoar, & the Attack . I find myself much Worse  - many of our Men are likewais very low and Weak –

 

 

Friday June 26 1767

 

Fine pleasant weather, with Sea and Land breezes & refreshing Showers, at 2 PM the Boats Landed without any Opposition. The Lieutenant Stuck up a Staff and On it hoisted a Pendant turned a Turf and took possession of this Land in his Majestys Name, and called it on Honour of his Most Sacred Majesty, King George the thirds Island, then went to the river and tasted the Water which he found to be exceeding Good, of which he made some Grogg, and gave every Man a Drink, to drink his Majesties health - after which he seeing two Old men in a Suppliant Posture he beckoned them to come over the River which one did crossing on his hands and knees, when he came over he shewed him what he wanted by filling two Cask of Water, and at the same time made Signs for Hogs & fruit, produced some Hatchetts, & other things which he would give in exchange, then Shewed him the stones that were threwn at the Ship, and endeavoured to make him sensible that we did not mean any harm to them, that we came only for Water & provisions and would trade very peaceably with them – after which he gave him a Hatchett, some Nails, beads and other trifles, then Embarked onboard the Boat: leaving the Pendant flying. and came onboard. soon after the Old man Danced round the Pendant for a Considerable time then retired and came again with some Green Boughs and threw them down – then he retired and came forward with about a Dozen Inhabitants all in a Suppliant Posture who would sometime come up close to it but when the Wind moved they would retreat with great precipitation – soon after they all came up Dancing with two large Hogs which they laid down at the foot of the Pendant staff, after Staying there a While they brought the Hogs down to the Water side launched a canoe and the Old Man, who had a large white Beard came down and off to the Ship with them, when he came alongside he made a Speech, handed in Several Green Plantain leafs and said somewhat everyone he gave in then he sent in the two 

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin                                        
June 1767
Friday 26


Hogs. he then Pointed to the Shore, I ordered some presents to be given him but he would take nothing. and Went onshoar, at Night we heard the Noise of Many Conks, Drums and Wind Instruments and great Numbers of Lights all along the Coast, at Six in the Morning, seeing no people on the Shoar and the Pendant taken away. Ordered the Lieu:t To take the guard Onshoar and if all was well to send of and we would begin watering he soon sent of for Empty Cask. and at eight o’Clock he sent off four Tons of water, some of the inhabitants had brought a little fruit and a few fowles which he likewais sent of. the Old Man being with them they kept on the oposide of the River, at half past Eight saw a great Number of the Natives coming over a Hill about a Mile of and at the same time a vast Number of canoes came round the Point & kept close to the Shore, looking at the Watering place I saw at the back of it where it was clear a great Number of people Creeping along behind the bushes and at the East Point of the Bay Canoes in great Plenty coming round the Point, and in the Woods thousands of the Inhabitants pushing along toward the Watering place with great speed sent a Boat to acquaint the Officer therof and to embark his Men and come Onboard without the Cask – before the Boats reached them they were Embarked having Spyed them Creeping thro’ the Wood towards them he immediately dispatched the Old Man and beckoned for them to keep at a Distance and pointed that he only wanted Water, they finding they were discovered set up a hallow and crossed the River and took possession of the Cask and made great rejoicing, at the same time the Canoes pulled up the Shore briskly the People on land keeping pace with them except a Multitude of Weomen and Children who Seated themselves on a Hill that overlooked the Bay and Beach; and as they drew nearer the Ship they put to the shore and took in more Men - who seemed to have Great Bags in their hands, The Canoes Still coming round each Point both to the Eastward and westward and all along Accompanied with numbers on the Shore especially as some of them had taken Men Onboard and came of toward the Ship. I thought it no longer a doubt that their intentions were to try their luck with us a second time and that it was necessary to conquer them in the beginning therefore every man being at Quarters I ordered them to fire first on the Groups of Canoes, which was done so effectually that those to the Westward pushed onshore as fast as possible those to the Eastward got round the Reef
& soon out of our reach & then directed the fire into the Woods in different parts which made them soon quit the Wood. and they got to the Hill where the Weomen & Children were, - where they assembled to a Multitude of some Thousands I really believe, ordered some of the Guns to let down as low as possible and fired four shot toward them, they thinking themselves in great Security, when two of the Shot fell close by a Tree where a great many were Sitting, that so afrighted them that in two Minutes time there was not One to be seen – I immediately Mann’d and Armed the Boats and Sent a Strong Guard with all the Carpenters with their Axes with orders to destroy all the Canoes that were ran onshoar which they performed from Noon, many of the Canoes were Sixty feet Long and Three Broad two lashed together, and would carry a Number of Men the Boats had vast Quantities of Stones and Slings in them, and nothing else except a few small Canoes which had some fruit and few fowles they destroyed upwards of fifty of these Canoes – the few fowles and hogs that were found in the Canoes, with the two that we had last Night I ordered to be distributed amongst the Ships Company which was more than a Pound for each Man -                           

 

Remarks                                                                                               
June 1767
Saturday 27


Fine Pleasant weather at 2 PM about Ten of the Natives came out of the Wood with Green Boughs in their Hands which the Stuck up near the Waterside and retired; soon after they come again and brought with them Several Hogs with their Legs tyed and placed them by the Boughs & went away, then returned with more Hogs and several Dogs with their legs tyed over their Head, as after that the brought down severall Bundles of Cloth where with they are Clothed it is exactly like Paper. these they left on the Beach and called to us onboard to come and take it, sent the Boats to the Shore and brought of the Offering which consisted of Nine good Hogs; cast the Dogs loose and left the Cloth on the Beach, and in Lieu of the Hogs left some Nails Hatchetts and other things, and pointing to them to take their Cloth  and the things we had sent on shore, the Boats came off, their people brought Two more Hogs down to the Beach and call’d to the Ship, sent the Boats again, they Pointed for to take the Hogs & Cloth, they took the Hogs but not the Cloth, the Natives would not touch the Hatchett &.e that I sent them, on the return of the Boats they said that they believed the reason the Natives would not receive our Presents was because we would not accept their Cloth, on which I sent for it, which as soon as we had taken off they came down rejoicing and took up all the things I had sent them, our Boats then went to the Watering Place and filled and brought off all the Cask about Six Tons – they were not hurt, but some Leather Bucketts and Funnells that were left behind were taken away.
AM sent Onshoar a Guard and the Boats to get water, soon after The Old Man, who came over to them first came again and made a long Speech and then crossed the River; when he was come over the Officer showed him the Stones that were brought there since his first Landing and likewais some of the Bags which were taken out of the Canoes we had destroyed and endeavoured to make him sensible that we had acted as we did thro’ necessity after which the Old Man made a Speech to the People, and showed them the Stone Slings and Bags and seemed rather furious in his speech to them; after which we shew’d him that we wished to be in friendship, Shook hands and Embraced him and gave him a few trifles and pointed to him that we would trafick with them for provisions, they to keep on one side the River and we the Other, and not any Number to come down – this they came into and by Noon, a trafick was begun and Provisions of fowl and Hogs with Vast Quantities of fruit was brought on board so that both the Sick and well had as much as they could make use of I likewais at the request of the Surgeon Ordered Wheat with Portable Soup and Breadfruit to be Boiled every Morning for the Peoples Breakfast, –
having Settled Matters so well Ordered the Second Lieu:t And Surgeon to look round and fix on some place to send the Sick, they returned saying that every where seemed very proper, but that it would be very imprudent for them to be sent at any other place than the Watering Place, as they would allway be under the Protection of the Ship and the Guard and prevent their Stragling; and could be constantly with the other, be brought of to their Meals, that we had so many Ailing and Employed that we could not separate them knowing the treachery of the Inhabitants.-

 

                                                                                                                 

Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin                                 

June 1767
Sunday 28


Moderate and fair weather; Appointed the Gunner to Command the Party that was sent onshoar everyday to protect both the people filling Water and the Sick who were sent onshoar with the Surgeon and had a tent erected for them where they kept themselves out of the Sun and Rain; I likewais directed the Gunner not to suffer any trade to be carried on between our people and the Natives but all to come thro’ him to prevent any disturbances and to endeavour to attach the Old Man to his Interest, which service from the beginning to the end he performed with great diligence and care. much to my Satisfaction and ease, nor did he neglect complaining of any one that trangressed these Orders, which I severely punished, and by making a few examples in the beginning hindered a growing evil, the Old Man was likewais greatly usefull to us and by signs would caution our straglers to get back for fear of being assaulted, which kept them alway on their guard.
Employed in the Ship in Caulking and Painting the Weather work, Overhauling the Rigging and Stowing the hold and doing sundry other things
this day I was Obliged to take to my bed and continued dangerously ill of a Billious Cholic for near a fortnight the first Lieu:t & Purser likewais very ill, and some of the Seamen, others recover very fast from the Scurvy.
Ordered the Second  Lieu:t to be particularly carefull that the people that were sent Onshore kept themselves orderly that they did not Straggle, nor by any means insult the natives; to procure fruit and fresh provision for the Ships Company as long as possible he could & always to keep a proper Guard to prevent being Surprised and never let the Boats be from the Ship after Sun Set; all these things he very punctually obeyed and gave me no kind of trouble in my Sickness - the People being daily served with Pork Fowles and great Quantities of fruit, that on my getting up I could scarce believe it was the Same Ships Company that I arrived here with – they were looking so healthy and well .-

 

Monday 29


Fine pleasant weather, Employed in Watering and other Services, sent the Boats to Hawl the Siene but caught no fish, likewais Trawled but without Success, indeed it was no great loss as the people fared Sumptuously every Day – my being ill with the first Lieu:t & purser prevented us from making Observations on the Satelites of Jupiter as the duty fell so hard on the 2:d Lieu:t and Master, and the Great Guard that was Constantly Onshoar every day and as large a One Onboard at Night, where as if we had Observed the Satellites we must have had a Guard Onshoar at Night and left No Officers Onboard – as the Master & M.r Furneaux were the Only Ones that could take any Observation of them, and they not Expert at it M.r Harison the Purser being very ill was a great Misfortune to us as he is very Expert in every branch of the Mathematicks, however we had many sights of the Sun and Moon for Setling the Longitude which we have since worked and hope that we have it nearly by the agreement of the Different Observations –

 

Tuesday 30  


Fair weather with refreshing showers One of our Men found a piece of Salt Petre Onshoar, the Surgeon made enquiry if Any one had brought a piece with them, but all declared they had none and on enquiring Onboard had the same answer he shewed it to the Natives, but could not know from them if they had any such thing or not, and during our Whole Stay we saw no more than this one piece
Gunner Supplies the Ship with Hogs and fruit in plenty -   

 

 

Remarks                                                                                            
July – 1767
Wednesday 1


Fine pleasant weather with refreshing showers, Employed in Wooding and Watering the Ship the Surgeon with the Sick daily onshoar, the Master with One of his mates Sounding all along the Shore for four Miles down, none of the Natives came near our Boats with their Canoes, nor within a mile or two of the Ship – Gunner with his guard Onshoar

 

Thursday 2 


Fine Pleasant weather, Gunner hath not such Quantities of Pork Fowles and fruit as before, the Old Man being absent. yet get enough to serve most of the Messes, reserving plenty for the Sick and recovering

 

Friday 3


Little wind & Squally with Rain, got only fresh Meat for the Sick and about thirty More – Heel’d the ship and look’d at her Bottom and could not find she received any Damage, it was as clean as when she came out of the Dock

 

Saturday 4


Light Airs. had tolerable Success at Markett, sent off Hogs and fowles enough to serve every Mess, with plenty of fruit, at Noon caught a very large Shark, sent it onshore when the Boats went for the people to come of to Dinner, when the Boats put of the Gunner made Signs to the Natives to cross the River, which they did and he gave them the Shark which they soon cut in pieces and carried away greatly pleased—

 

Sunday 5


Cloudy weather, had plenty of fowles and Ten small Hogs from the Market Tent, the Scorbutic Men recover very fast, severall Complaints of Bilious Fevers and Cholicks, but they soon get over it, except myself & the first Lieu:t who remain very ill, the Purser better took an Observation for finding the Longitude, together with M.r Furneaux and the Master


Monday 6


Fine Pleasant weather, the Old Man returned to the Gunner and made Signs to him that he had been up the Country to get the People to come in with Trade; soon after came down several people with larger Hogs than we had yet seen severall of which were sent Onboard, the Old Man likewise came of and brought a Roasted Hog with him as a present gave him an Iron Pot looking Glass drinking Glass and several other things.

 

Tuesday 7


sent a Mate with 30 Men to a Village to purchase Stock, but they gave more for it there then at the Waterside, where they had advanced the Price of things greatly by some of our peoples stealing Iron from the Ship and exchanging it with the Natives, so that instead of Small Nails for Midling Hogs they shewed large spikes, and would not part with them as before, made a Search severall Cleats being drawn, but could not discover the Agressors, Offered a good reward but to no purpose I being able to get up and the Weather being pleasant Rowed down the Coast about four Miles it was exceeding populous and Pleasant they had great Numbers of Boats, but none came of to us, nor did they take any notice of the Boat as she passed along the Shore -
At Noon came onboard: this is the first time of my being out of the Ship the first Lieu:t Still dangerously ill –

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin                                      
July Wednesday 8


Employed in compleating our Wood and Water Gunner with his Guard as Usuall, is Obliged to give more then formerly for what he gets, yet have enough for the Daily Expence and great plenty of fruit. -

 

Thursday 9


Pleasant weather; Employed as before, trade for Hogs & Poultry very bad Fruit in great Plenty. Read the Articles of War and punished some of the People who had been disobedient  to Orders that were given them Onshoar. particularly James Proctor the Corporall of Marines who not only left his Station - but Insulted the Officer, & when he came onboard and was ordered into Confinement, he knocked the Master at Arms down

 

Friday 10


Moderate weather, some of the Inhabitants came aboard in our boat who had been very kind to the Wooders. They seemed both by their dress and Actions to be above the common sort; gave them some presents and put them onshore again – but little trade; Just enough to Supply the Sick -

 

Saturday 11


Fresh breezes and Rainy, got only two Fowles, the Inhabitants all making Signs for Large Nails, in looking around the Ship the Carpenters found that all the Belaying Cleats were Ripped off and most of the Hammock Nails drawn – Ordered All hands up and endeavoured to find out who had been the Thieves; then told them that if they would not discover I would put a Stop to their going onshoar, could make no discovery, the Corporal of Marines Proctor Corporal of marines behaving in a Mutinous Manner Punished him – immediately

 

Sunday 12


Fresh breezes, gunner sent of hogs and Fowles enough for the Ships Company

 

Monday 13


Fresh breezes and fair at PM the Gunner came onboard with a Tall well looking Weoman about forty five years old, She had a very Majestic Mein and he seeing her paid great respect by the Inhabitants, She being just come there he made her some presents, she in return invited him to her House about two Miles up the Valley and gave him some large Hogs & shewed an Inclination to go on Board the Ship. She was quite free & easy on her coming onboard, and all the time she was there, I gave her a large Blue Mantle that Reached from her head to her Heels and tyed it with Ribbons, and gave her several sorts of Beads a Looking Glass and many other things, she taking notice that I had been ill pointed to the shore, I made signs that I would be there tomorrow Morning, she soon after went Onshoar and the Gunner with her, who saw her to her habitation, he said it was a prodigious large house and that it was extreamly well built that her Guards and domesticks lived in it and that she had one close by that it was very large but it was closed with Lettice- work
In the Morning I went onshoar for the first time where the Queen I may call her soon came, and made some of her people to take me and all went with me that were ailing up in their Arms and Carry me a Cross the River, and so on to her house & ordering a Guard to follow, the there was a Multitude of People, She only conversing with her hand or Speaking a Word they immediately withdrew,- and left us a free Passage. When  we came near her house a Great Number of Men and Weomen came out to meet her, and she brought them to me and

                                                                                                        

 

Remarks                                                                                   
July 1767
Monday 13


after shewing me by Signs they were her Relations she took hold of my hand and made them Kiss it – after this we went into the Large House (a Plan of Which I have here Inserted) she made us all sit down then she called four Young Girls who took down my Stockings and shoes and pulled of my coat and they Smoothed down the Skin Gently Chafing it, She Likewise had the same operation performed on the First Lieu:t. and Purser who were both Ailing, but those who were in health, she did not trouble, after a certain time I believe near half an hour they left of and dressed me again at which they were very awkward, however I found that it had done me much Service and the others declared the same She then ordered some Bundles to be brought, and took from thence some Country Cloth, which is like Paper, and clothed me and all that were with me after their Manner, I seemed unwilling but at last not choosing to offend her Accepted it, at my going away she Ordered a very large Sow Big with Young to be taken down to the Boat, she accompanied us and I choosing to walk she took me by the Arm and lifted me over every rough with as much care as I could (when in health) a Child –
In the morning I sent her by the Gunner Six Hatchetts, Six Bill Hooks & some other things, - the Gunner said that when he Came there she was giving an  Entertainment to He believed near a Thousand People – that there were severall people making up Messes and brought to her, and the Guests being seated in Rows round the Great House she gave to every one a Mess from her own hands, after which She sat down by her Self in a high place, and two weomen placed themselves on each side and fed her she opening her mouth as they brought their hands up with food, she ordered a Mess for the Gunner, he said he believed it was fowl pick’d Small and Apples cut up with it and seasoned with Salt water, that it was very well tasted, - She accepted the things that was sent her and seemed much pleased with them. and they came away. after this the trade went on very well people came in daily with fowles and Hogs many very large ones – only we were Obliged to pay more for them than we did  at first by the people Spoiling the Markett, yet every thing was as cheap as dirt. - Serv’d fresh Pork

 

Tuesday 14


Fresh Gales and Rainy weather, seeing some People on the Beach, sent the Gunner to them, who returned immediately with four Good Hogs and two Dozen of fowles with much fruit served fresh Pork

 

Wednesday 15


Moderate and Cloudy Employed in getting fresh Stock, the Gunner Complains that the Trade is greatly Spoiled by the Large Spikes that are Stole from the Ship and brought Onshoar, which the People give the Weomen – that they will now part with nothing but for twice as much as they did yesterday. gave Orders that every man that goes onshoar should be Searched before he landed and not to suffer the Weoman to Cross the River.-

 

Thursday 16


Fair weather, Sent the Second Lieutenant with all the Boats and Sixty Men down to the Westward to look at the Country and try what was to be got, at Noon he returned. having Marched along Shore about Six Miles, he Sais the Country is very pleasant, very Numerous of Inhabitants, had great plenty of fowles Hogs and Vegetables, that they were not fond of parting with any thing, nor did they any way molest them, gave them Cocoa Nutts and Plantains; they Purchased Nine Hogs and a few Fowles, that he believes they would some come into Trade, but it is too far off, as it would take so many men for a Guard; they have abundance of Large Canoes, & many building, they have no kind of Metal, their Tools being all made of Stone with which they work very well and fast, they have no kind of Animal except Hogs and Dogs, their Houses large and well built, they have no Earthern Vessells, but eat everything Roasted or Broiled - that a Ship may Anchor all the way down in 20 to 10 fathom – less than a Mile from the shoar

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin         

                               
July 1767
Friday July 17


Fine Pleasant Weather, Gunner Onshoar Trading, the Surgeon with the Ailing Cooper Setting up more Water Cask, the Second Lieu:t  taken very ill, the first and myself very low and weak can scarce crawl; Punished James Proctor Marine for being Mutinous, - got off plenty of Hogs & Fowles. The Queen hath been absent severall days but by Signs of the People will be here tomorrow-

 

Saturday 18


Moderate and fair, the Queen came down to the Beach, and soon after a Number of New People came with Trade – the Gunner sent off fourteen Hogs and plenty of fruit

 

Sunday 19


Afternoon the Queen came Onboard, and gave a present of two large Hogs, in the Evening she Went Onshore Sent the Master with her and a present She on landing took him by the Hand, made a long Speech to the Natives and then led him up to her House where She Cloathed him in her Country Manner. AM the Gunner Sent of more Stock than any day yet. Viz forty Eight Hogs and Piggs. Four Dozen of Fowles, great plenty of Breadfruit, Benanoes, Apples and Cocoanutts –

 

Monday 20


Moderate and fair. People all hearty and Well the Officers Sick and Weak Gunner with his Guard Still Trading well with good Success –

 

Tuesday 21


Pleasant weather, found that Francis Pinckney Seaman had Drawn the Cleats that the Main Sheet was belayed to and stole the Spikes and threw the Cleats overboard, turned the people up shewed them what a Wanton Crime he had been Guilty of that many more must have been concerned in the like theft, that they had as much fresh meat every day as they could make use of, & that the price there of was risen above twice it value since we Came here, occasioned by the theft of these large Nails. then Ordered them to prepare Nettles and him to Run the Gauntlett three times Round the Deck which he did but was so tenderly handled that I told the people that they rather Encouraged thieves than punished them when one was given over to them who had committed so great a crime to the whole Community, therefore put a stop to any person Except the Guard from Going onshoar again. we get Plenty of Stock.-

 

Wednesday 22


Moderate and fair, the Queen came Onboard and brought Severall large Hogs as a Present would take nothing for them. pointed for us to go Onshoar with her which I did, with severall of the Officers, She made us Sit down took our Hatts and Tyed Bunches of Feathers, at them, and Tied round of our Necks wreaths of Hair knotted together which was knitted and worked like Sinnet, and she made Signs it was her hair and her work She likewais gave us some Matts very well wrought; and accompanied us back to the Beach, when we went into the Boat to go Onboard she put in a very large fine Sow big with Pig and a Quantity of fruit, in the mean time I endeavoured to make her understand that we should go from this Place in Seven days, She immediately understood what I meant and made signs to Stay Twenty Day, to go two days into the Country stay there a few days, bring down plenty of Hogs and Fowles and then go - I shewed that I must go at that time, on which she sat down and Cryed bitterly – PM the Gunner sent of no less than Twenty Hogs with great Plenty of fruit, Our Decks quite full of Hogs and fowles, kill the Small & keep the large for Sea, they nor the fowles will eat nothing but fruit. the Gunner desired a present for the Old man who hath been very usefull to him, gave him an Iron Pott, some Hatchetts & Bills and a Piece of Cloth, the Gunner hopes that the Old Man will let his Son go with us as he seems inclined so to do, & the Boy very willing -                           

 

 

Remarks                                                                             
July
Thursday 23


Fresh Gales & Cloudy with very heavy rain severall trees were blown down on the Shore, and it Seemed to blow very hard without; however we felt very little of it here. saw some people on the Beach sent the Gunner to Markett who brought of Six fine large Hogs and some fruit

 

Friday 24


Squally with Rain the Latter fair, Sent the Queen Two Turkeys, Two Geese, three Guinea Hens, a Cat big with kitten some China, Glass, Glass Bottles, Shirts, Needles thread, Cloth, Ribbons, Pease, Calivances, and about Sixteen different sorts of Garden seeds, as Cabbages, Turnips &:e – the Gunner took up two Marines with Shovells, and made a large bed and planted a little of all sorts in it, and gave her the Seeds and a Shovell. several of the Garden seeds and pease we knew would grow as he planted some in many places that were very flourishing. – I like wais sent her two Iron Potts, knives Susspans & Spoons the Gunner brought off Eighteen Hogs and some fruit –

Fine pleasant weather and the Air cool after some Rain AM Ordered Mr Gore with all the Marines and forty Seamen & four Midshipmen to go up the Valley by the River as high as he could and make his remarks on the Soil and what kind of Trees Plants &.e he saw in his way up, to Examine where he saw any Stream from the Mountains if he could find any Minerals or Oer, likewais at the head of the River, from thence to get up as high as he could on the Hills, and take notice of the Soil and produce there. taking care allway to be on his Guard and to Secure himself and make a fire if he should be Attacked.
at the same time, took a Guard on shoar at a Point of Land Erected a Tent, and with M.r Harison the Purser, to observe an Eclipse of the Sun which they luckily Saw the Morning being very clear and it was is Expressed underneath
Latitude of the Point we stood on 17”30 South, Suns declination at that time 19°40’M

 

Saturday 25: th


Saturday July 25 1767, An eclipse of the Sun happened nearly about Six hours and fifty two Minutes in the Morning (or AM by the Log). 

After the Observation was taken went to the Queen’s house and Shewed her The Telescope, she lookd thro’ it and was all Astonishment; then made many of her attendants look thro’ it, after this I invited her and many of her Court to come onboard which they Accepted, I thought by securing her and some of the Principal people there could be no danger to the Party that I sent off, Entertained them with a good Dinner, She eat nothing nor would She Drink all the others eat very hearty but drank only plain water –

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majestys Ship Dolphin Sunday July 26   

           
Fresh Breezes and fair weather, In the evening when Our People returned from the Excursion they had made into the Country, and came down to the Beach, I took the Queen and her Attendants & put them into the Boats and sent them Onshoar the Queen Expressed great Sorrow when she found we persisted in leaving this placed and made Signs that she would be here again tomorrow Morning –
The Mate when he came Onboard made me this written account

Sir, I landed at four in the morning on the 20 fifth of July by Your Orders, with four Midshipmen, a Sergeant and Twelve Marines, twenty four Seamen all Armed four that carried Hatchetts and Traffick and four Loaded with Ammunition and Provision, every man had his days allowance of Brandy – the Hatchett men two Small Kegs to give when I should think proper

After I landed immediately followed the Track of the River first calling on the Old Man who went with me. we marched by the River a Party on each side untill it narrowed so much that we were obliged to keep on one Side, the River Winding much and the Mountains hanging over our heads, we found it difficult travelling; for the first two miles we found it very well inhabited. with Gardens, Walled in with plenty of Fowles Hogs and fruit, the Soil look’d to be rich fat blackish Earth. there were Canalls cut in the Sides of the Hills for to lead the Water from the high parts of the River into their Gardens and to their fruit Trees the had an herb in their Garden which they eat of raw, none of which they had ever brought down to the Water Side, I tasted it and found it pleasant, and think it is in taste like Calleboor in the West Indies but the leaf unlike it, the Ground was fenced off very Prettily and the Breadfruit and Apple Trees planted in Rows on the Side of the Hills the Cocoa Nut and Plantain in the level requiring more Moisture, it made it pleasant and cool, here was very good Grass and no underwood—
when we were about four Miles up being weary’d with last miles bad road we sat down to breakfast, they people pleasantly seated under a large Apple Tree, when of a Sudden we heard a Confusion of Voices and a great hallowing, and soon saw a Number of Men Weomen and Children above us, the Old Man beaconed to us to sit still and he went to these people who immediately were Silent and went away in a few Minutes after they returned with a large roasted Hog, Roasted breadfruit, Yams and fruit and gave it to the Old Man who gave it to the People – I in return gave them some Nails, buttons and such things, as I had with which they seem’d much pleased, after this we went up the Valley as far as we could searching all the runs of water and places where the water had ran down, but could find no kind of metal or Oar except the pieces I have brought with me, I likewais shewed them the Saltpetre they did take no notice of it, the Old Man being weary he pointed to us to go up the side of the Mountain & made these people take the Baggage with fruit Cocoa Nutts filld with water and follow us. he going away home; the People first brought Green boughs then took small berrys and painted themselves red and some bark of a Tree which had a yellow Juice & Rubbed some of it on their Cloths. After which we began to Climb the Mountain which was very steep: the Old man seeing that it was with much difficulty that we forced our way through the Weeds and brush which grew very thick he turned back called to the Natives who to the Number of twenty or thirty went before us and cleard a very good path, and all the way gave us water and fruit, and helped us up in the most difficult places, for without their assistance we could never have got up this way, I believe this Hill was near a Mile from                        

 

 

Remarks      

                                                                                             

Top of it to the Waterside, I mean the River we came from – and Six mile from where we landed in the Morning. being arrived at the Top of the hill we sat down to refresh and rest ourselves; tho this was a very high hill yet there were many at the back of it so high that we seemed to be in a Valley, but on our looking toward the Ship it was delightfully pleasant; the Side of the Hills being full of trees and Villages, and the Valley still thicker inhabited - we saw very few habitations higher then where we were, but saw smoaks assending from between the High hills, which makes me think that there must be many inhabitants there – in coming up the hill we found severall Springs. and when on the Hill we saw a number of houses that passed by undescerned. all even the Highest Mountains were covered with Trees but what sort I know not, those that were the height of this we were on was Clear on the Tops and Plain part, The Side woody the Top Rocky with Fearn, the lower and Flat parts a Sedgy Grass and Weeds the Soil seems to be rich – we saw Several bushes of very good sugarcane and large it seems to grow wild. I likewais found ginger and Tumerick every where samples of which I have brought; seeds I could find none the Trees being mostly in Blossom. when we were in a very difficult part of the Hill found a Tree exactly like a fearn only 14 or 15 feet high, this I cut down, and the inside was exactly like a fearn likewais, would have brought a piece of it with me but found it too cumbersome, and knew not what other difficulties we meet with before we could reach the Ship which we Judged now was be a great way from us; - after having sufficiently recruited ourselves proceeded from the Hill towards the Plains & Valleys, keeping our like toward the Ship only straying a little when we saw any houses pleasantly situated, where we found the people ready to offer us any thing they had; we saw no wild beast except few Hogs, nor fowl except Parrets, Paroquetts, & Green Doves, by the River plenty of Ducks – every place that was planted and cultivated seemed to thrive extremely well tho’ it was in the midst of what seem’d barren ground, therefore believe that if the whole was cultivated it would produce abundance of everything –
I planted Peach stones, Cherry, Plum & other Seeds you gave me, with all the Garden Seeds in such places as I thought they were most likely to thrive and the Limes, Lemons and Oranges in such places as they generally are found in the West Indies – afternoon we got at a pleasant place about three Mile from the Ship where we procured two Hogs and some fowles, which the Natives dressed for us very expeditiously and well, with Breadfruit, we staid here till the cool of the Evening then Marched for the Ship having first handsomely rewarded our Guides, and people who provided us so good a Dinner, we parted in great friendship with each other, The Men with me behaving themselves the whole day thru with great Order and decency, this is all the Account I can give of this Country –

 


John Gore

July, Sunday 26     


Fine Pleasant weather the Queen came onboard about 10 O’clock and brought some Fowls and Hogs as a present, and went onshoar again soon after; the Gunner sent of this day near Thirty Hogs, and great Plenty of Fowls and Fruit, compleated all our Water and Wood and got all ready for Sea -  More Inhabitants, come from the Country then we had seen before many seem to be Chief Men by the respect paid them by others,---

 

 

Remarks Onboard his Majesty’s Ship Dolphin                                  
July 1767, Monday 27


Light Breezes and fair weather, at 3 in the Afternoon Our friend the Queen was Dressed came down, with a Great Number of Inhabitants, cross’d the River with her attendants and came on board with the Old man – She brought some very fine fruit, made Signs for us to Stay Ten days longer and She would go into the Country and bring us plenty of Hogs Poultry and fruit. on shewing her that we should Sail in the Morning she wept bitterly, then she made Signs, when should we return again, Shew’d her fifty days, She made Signs for Thirty, but finding fifty allways made to her She seemd Satisfied, the Gunner and Guard came of having Compleated our Markett, the Decks full of Hogs and prodigeous Quantities of Fowles and fruit;
at Night the Queen could be scarce prevailed upon to go onshoar, She lay down upon the Aran Chest and cryed a long time, at last she with her retenue went Onshoar the Old Man I believe had hid his Son away for two evenings ago he took the boy from the Watering place and hath not been seen Since, the Old Man seemed to shew that he was gone into the Country, to see his friends and would be back to go with us, but we never saw him after:-
at Day break unmoor’d and hove Short, at the same time sent the Barge and Cutter to fill all the Empty Casks, on their coming near the Shore, they were Surprised at seeing such a Number of inhabitants as covered the whole Beach. that they were going to pull of again for the Sip, when the Queen Came forward and called to them, and made the Inhabitants retire to the other side of the River, and let them fill the Casks, she brought some fruit and Hogs, and put into the Boat, and would have come of in our Boat but the Officer had directions not to bring any of the People of, She presently Launched a Double Canoe and came of to the Ship, on which about fourteen or Sixteen more were launched and followed when she came off she cried a great deal, she came in and Staid about an hour, there Springing up a breeze weighed the Anchor, and made sail we then sent her into her Boat, She grieved extremely at it, Embraced us all in the most affectionate Manner, as did all her Attendants who seemed to be very Sorrowful at our leaving them, soon after it fell calm, sent the Boats a Head; the Canoes returned to the Ship again and the One which the Queen was in made fast the Gunroom Port, and she came into the Bow of it where she sat crying we gave her many usefull things which She Accepted yet made little account of them being under so much affliction
At Ten Sprung up a fresh Breeze the Ship being now without the Reef and a popling Sea She Shook us all by the hand and then put of the Canoe all the rest following her –

At Noon, Port Royal Harbour being the Name I gave the Port we sailed from Bore SE ½ E Distance about Twelve Miles –
The Extreams of King George 3:d  Island from ESE Six Leagues, to SBW five Leagues
The Duke of Yorks Island from WBS five Leagues to SW Six or 7 Leagues
Ship in Latitude, Observed 17”22* South –

Served fresh Pork to the Ships Company who thank God are all healthy and well myself and two Lieutenants being the only Invalids, and we in a recovering way tho’ excessive low and weak –

 

 

Remarks made at Georges Island                                

              
The Inhabitants of this Island are a Stout clean Limbd active people, they are from  five feet 7 to 5.10 Inc.high, some few Taller, & Some Shorter, the Weomen most of the from five feet to five feet Six. Men of a Tawny colour those that go on the Water much Redder than those who live onshoar they have strong Black hair which they Tye on the Top of their head, some in the Middle. other in two Bunches; one on each side, and some few don’t tye it up, these Generally have curled hair of different Colours, black, Brown, red and Whitish – or flaxen, especially the Young Boys and Girls – they are all Cloathed very decently in White and appear very gracefull. their Cloth is made of the inner rind of a Shrub somewhat like Hazle, this they beat by a Brook on a Flat Board with a Notched piece of Wood until all but the fibres are washed away and after that they lay these pieces length ways close to each other throw some Cocoanut Oil on it when Dry. and Beat it with a Fluted Stick every now and then lifting it up and where it is thin they add some of the cleaned Bark and beat it in, so that it looks exactly like some China Paper, they make it of different finess and Sizes, and with this they Cover themselves having first a piece that reaches from their shoulders to their Mid leg on both sides their being a hole in the Middle to put their head thro’ and after this they have a finer Piece of four or five yards long and one Broad which they wrap themselves up in in a very easy manner, the weomen in general are very handsome, some really great Beauties, yet their virtue was not proof against a Nail. for they would prostitute themselves for a Nail, the lower sort for a Small one and the Nail must be larger in proportion the Lady’s Beauty; even the Fathers & brothers brought them to the people and Shew’d sticks proportional to the Nail they were to give, and would then send them across the River it was sometime before the Officers found this out for the Men never sayd and our people used to Stragle but a little way whilst the other kept a look out; and it was this that occasion’d the Stealing all the Nails they could come at, and draw the belaying Cleats for none of them attempted to trade as they found that they dayly had as much fresh provisions and fruit as they could make use of.-

The Boats made use of here were of three sort, Canoes made out of Single Trees, capable of carrying from two to Six Men - these were Chiefly for fishermen and were generally off fishing on the Reef, the Second Sort were of Different Sizes made of Severall planks dexterously sewed together and would carry from Ten to Forty Men. these generally consisted of two lashed together and two Masts Stept between them, or a large Single Canoe with an Out licker on Each Side and only One Mast, with these boats they go of to sea quite out of sight, and sail to different parts of the Island, bring Plantains, Bonanoes and Yams, which were not so plenty here as they seem to be to windward, the Other Boats are made Chiefly for Shews & Processions they being very large and made in Shape like the Venetian Gondels, and have large Awnings Rose over the Midle of them, and people sit both on the Awnings and under it, we saw none of these except the first and Second day, near the Ship but three or four Times a Week we saw a Procession of Eight or Ten with Streamers Flying and Thousands of people running along the Shore, and Numbers of Small Canoes attending them. When they Rowed out to the Outer Point of a Reef that was about four Mile to the Westward of us where they Stayed a bout One Hour and then returned; they never went but in very fine weather and all the people that attended these Canoes were dressed which at other times they were not (illegible) as when in their Boats, the Rowers in the Large Canoes & those that Steerd them were dressed in White the others that sat on and under the Canopy had White and Red clothing and two men Mounted on the Prowe of Each Boat were dressed in Red, they were Constantly Opening and folding up certain pieces of Cloth of White Red and Spotted – we did not go nearer to them than a Mile as it was far from the Ship and they very numerous, we stood on the outer part of a Reef and with Spying Glasses saw as plain as if we had been amongst them -                                                         
                          

I found in going to the Queen’s house Severall places Walled in, with little Sheds within the Walls and without, severall Uncouth figures of men, Weomen, Hogs, & Dogs carved on Posts drove into the Ground, when I was told that every where that our Parties had been they saw such places, particularly at the West End where they were Much larger. that they frequently saw the people go into these places with dejected looks, and from thence believed them to be places where their Dead were buried, the Greatest part was very hansomly Paved with large Round stones and some of these places seem’d to be quite paved over and Grass growing between as tho’ it had not been used for a long While. I endeavoured to find out if they had any sort of Worship but could not perceive they had.
The food they chiefly live on is Breadfruit, Bonanoe, Plantains, Yams, Apples , and a Sower fruit not good of it self but beat up with the Roasted Breadfruit is pleasant enough – flesh is Hogs and Fowles. They have abundance of Ratts, but they don’t seem to trouble themselves about them only hang their basketts with their Meat and fruit at the Beams of their houses or on the Boughs of trees to prevent them from eating it, they have very good Mullet in the River tho’ not large nor plenty
Concks, Mussles and other Shell fish on the Reef which they gather at low Water and eat Raw with their Breadfruit on the Reef. They likewais have very fine Crawfish. the fishing Boats have both hooks & Lines and very large long nets with Small Meshes, with which they catch abundance of Small fish about the size of Sardines, and with their hooks they catch Parrot fish, Grooper, and many others, yet they are so fond of them that they were loth to part with any, their hooks are made of Mother of Pearle, we tryed to catch fish both with nets and lines but could meet with no success; we likewais tryed with their hooks but to as little purpose – we found among the Weoman a few real Pearls of which I got about two Dozen Small and Spoiled in Boring they seem to be of a good Colour. M.r Furneaux saw several when he was down at the West end but they would not part with them and some of the People said they saw some as big as large Pease, but as none of the Officers saw them and Seamen all way Exagerate things I cannot say whether this be the present case, for if they were so plenty undoubtedly they would bring them to Market in Exchange for Iron – I put down a Johannes, a Guinea, a Crown Piece a Spanish Dollar, Some Shillings and a new half pence – and two large Nails, and pointed for them to take what they liked best, the Nails were immediately seized on and a few of the half pence whilst the Silver and Gold lay neglected. some of the people that had no Nails I suppose had cut up lead and made it like pieces of Iron which many of the Natives got from them.and to their sorrow brought them to the Gunner in hopes of his giving them real Nails for it.- they having no use for it;  the Nails they fixed in Sticks and Sharpened the Points with which they Bored little holes in the plank to Sew the Canoes together as that was done before with pieces of Bone. the Plank is made by Splitting a Tree with the Grain into Many Thin Pieces as they Can. and then with their Tools made like Shipwrights Adzes they dub it level every man having by him a Stone and a Cocoa Nut Shell filled with water with which he Sharpens his adz every minute, Six or Eight will work on one of these pieces of wood and in a Short Space will bring it into a Plank of Ten fifteen or Twenty feet long and an Inch through more or less according to the part of the Boat it is to be placed in, and will after fitt it to the Boat with the exactness of an expert Joiner – they Cut the Tree down with the larger Hatchetts, and after into Planks  of Such Size as they have occasion for, then they heat the End of it ‘till it begin to Crack and Split after which they make use of Wedges made of hard Wood and soon Split them into pieces the Breadth of the tree so that some of their plank is near two feet broad, but the generallity about one foot, the tree they use mostly is the Apple Tree, it being tall and Straight, many of which I had measured and they were about Eight feet in Girth and from twenty to forty to the Branches and diminished very little in Size from the Bottom to the Branches – the Carpenter sais it is not very good wood being light; the Small Canoes are made of the Bread fruit Tree Hollowed out, it being a light spungy Wood.- they have some Ebony as appears from the Clubs the Beat their Cloth with and Staffs that some of the people who seem’d to have authority. yet we saw none growing, indeed we could not make so many discoveries as we wished for, being so few in Number and the Great Guard we were Obliged to keep both Onboard and onshore that we had as much as we could possibly under take without running the risque of being all cut of for notwithstanding all their civility, I doubt not but it was more thro’ fear than love that they respected us so much – one thing I cannot help remarking because it was a happy means I believe of keeping them in proper order and keeping their distance, the first day the Surgeon went onshore with the Sick People after placing them in some Sheds on the Beach and out of the Sun he walked a little way by the river side the Natives on the other side when a Wild Duck flew over his head which he fired at and it fell dead amongst the Natives who were all affrighted and ran away, he made Signs for one of them to bring it over with fear and Trembling, at which time severall more flew over his head and he luckily brought down three More, (they seeing this and many other times that he shot Ducks) that a Man approaching them with a Musquett could make a Thousand run away so that it was easy to keep them at a Distance, and the Gunner as so well managed matters that with the Old Mans assistance he kept them in exceeding good Order; and when at any time they pilfered, he would make them bring back what was stolen, a fellow one day had crossed the river and stole a Hatchett. on which he got his Party ready as tho’ he would go up the Country after him and pointed to the Old man signifying as much, that the went after him and brought back the Hatchett and other things he had Stole, the Gunner made them lay it down and insisted on their bringing the thief and at last they went out again and brought him (he knowing the Man) he sent him Onboard. and after much Intreaty had him onshoar again and gave him his liberty at which there was a General rejoicing & next day he brought the Gunner and his Party a large Roasted Hog and Breadfruit.-

The Manner in which the Dress their Meat is as follows, they dig a Pit about half a foot Deep and two or three Yards in Circumference, this they pave with Large Pebbles laid down very smooth and Even, then the make a fire with leaves and Wood & Cocoa Nutt Husks and burn them to ashes and make the stones as hot as they think is necessary for what they have to dress then they Rake back the Ashes on every Side after which they lay on the Stones a layer of Green Cocoa nut Tree leaves Stript of them they wrap up their Hog if Small whole, if large Split in Plantain leaves Fowles, in the same Manner, then the Cover all with the Hot Embers, on this they put Bread Fruit, Yams &.e wrapped in Plantain leaves but first well Scraped, then they throw the remainder of the Hot Embers on this, after which the cover the Embers with Cocoa nut leaves and throw a quantity of husks so that all the heat is kept in, and after continuing covered for half an hour or more according to the Size of what is dressing they take it out and I think it is the finest way of dressing I have ever met with for the Meat is quite Tender and full of Gravy, the fruit is excellent quite unlike any we could dress, they have no Sauce but Salt water, nor knives but Shells with which they carve very dexterously all way cutting from them; they have the use of pinces as appeared from one of our men running a large splinter into his foot, the Surgeon not being there some of the people endeavoured with a Pair knife to take it out, but after, putting the Man to a good deal of Pain they were obliged to give it over, the Old man then called to a Man who cross’d the River and looked at the Seamans foot, then went down to the beach took up a Shell and broke it to a Point with his Teeth and in an Instant laid open the place and took out the splinter the Old Man who had gone over to the other Side returned with some Gum and placed it on the Wound tore a piece of his Wrapper                      

                                                                                                          

Tyed up the Wound and in two days, his foot was whole, the Surgeon got some of the Gum of the Apple Tree – many of the Trees produce a Gummy juice, particularly one that they make use of as pitch for closing the Seams and Rents in their  Canoes, they use Cocoa Nut Oil for burning in Lamps and Making their Cloth, and Anointing their hair, for the latter the Scrape a root which smells like roses into it where it lays in Sleep and hath a fragrant Smell, they have many flowering Shrubs the flowers, they Stick likewais into their hair they have no Combs yet they dress up their hair very neatly, however, those that had combs from us used them very well and did their hair up much neeter than those who had none, I did not see one Tortoise or Turtle whilst here, yet on Shewing them some Small Turtle we brought from Charlotte Island, they made Signs that they had large Ones: I was unlucky in loosing a he Goat soon after I left S:t Iago, having two Shee Ones which would have left at this place if the he one had lived or the others with Kid, as I doubt not but in a few years they would have Greatly Increased .-
The SE end of the Island seems to be better Cultivated and Inhabited than this End for Boats daily came round from thence Laden with Plantains, but keep allwais at a distance from the Shore until they are past the Ship, and then land at the West end from whence they bring up things to Markett and on the arrival of their boats we find greater plenty and Cheaper then at other times –

The Climate here seems to be very good by the healthfull look of the Natives and the Greenness of the Trees and Valleys, no Fogs or Vapours arising out of Water from the Low Ground that being everywhere well drained, and what is more surprising though it is so warm a Climate our meat kept very well two days & the fish One, we were not troubled with Muskettoes, in the low ground, nor flyes half so much as you are in the Summer in England. nor did our people during our whole Stay here in all the excursions the made ever See a Frog, Toad, Viper or Snake, Scorpion or Centipeids, and very few ants, which is the only place I ever saw without most of the Above mentioned  Noxious reptiles.

These people I believe have Wars with each other and having seen severall with large Scars which they Shew was done with Stones, and Bludgeons, and Point to the Mountains, they have Bows and Arrows but the Arrows are all blunt with a piece of round hard stone in the End and With them they knock down Parrets &  Doves. I saw none that had any thing Sharp in the End.- The Tide rises and falls very little and that quite uncertain being wholly governed by the Winds which blow generally from the East to SSE – a pleasant Gale at most times.
tho’ there is much Sugar cane and pretty large in some places the Natives made very little use of it, only taking a Small piece to chew when they come past a patch of it nor did I find they made any kind of Liquor but drank clear water always.
They were much astonished to see the Gunner Dress fowls and Pork in a Pot onshoar as they have no kind of Vessels but Wooden Ones they are Quite Ignorant of what Boiling Water, is, but the Old Man now boils the Pot I gave him every day. But for flesh or fish and hath numbers of friends to partake thereof allway with him at  Meal times – I gave the Queen and many More of the Principal People Iron Potts of which to make much use –

              I forgot to remark that all the Men and Weomen have their Backsides Marked Black with Striking a thing with teeth like a Comb into their Flesh & Rubbing it with a Paste made up Sutt & Oyle – those who are under Twelve are not Marked. Some fat people I saw had their legs marked in Checquers They Seem’d to be of Greater Note than the others.    


   
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